Understanding your skin and skin care chart

Understanding your skin

Understanding your skin type is the key to vibrant, glowing, youthful-looking skin, not only because skin type is the way that cosmetics industry designates products, but because using a product made for your skin will drastically improve its health and appearance.

A skin care routine should be based on your skin type. For example:

Normal Skin - can benefit from a variety of skin care products because it’s neither too oily nor too dry.
Oily Skin – should avoid the use of rich, heavy creams and lotions infused with oils. Shiny skin tends to be acne-prone so the use of anti-acne products and water-based gels are recommended.
Dry Skin – needs to be deeply moisturized with oil-based skin care products to re-hydrate, flaky, itchy, wrinkle-prone skin.
Combination Skin – needs to be treated with skin care products made for both oily skin (in the T-zone area) and normal skin.

Acne-Prone Skin

Acne-prone skin, know as “acne vulgarise”, is a common yet frustrating skin type to have. It’s characterized by whiteheads, blackheads, pimples, redness, inflammation and irritation.

Skin that’s acne-prone often has a shiny, greasy and unclean appearance. Large pores are also evident on the forehead, nose, chin, cheeks, neck, upper back and shoulders. Acne-prone skin is primary influenced by diet, the environment and can sometimes be irritated by cosmetics.

Keeping the skin clean and controlling the skin’s oil are both extremely important for those with acne prone skin. One of the easiest home remedies for acne-prone skin is a facial mud mask. Let the mask sit on your face for 10 minutes, then rinse it off in cold water. The handy mask works well to dry the skin and obstruct the pores.

On a daily basis, a simple way to let the skin breathe is to minimize the use of cosmetics. Also always keep skin moisturized with a water-based moisturizer after it has been cleaned.

Aging Skin

Aging skin is medically called “actinic elastosis” or “photo aging”. Skin naturally begins to lose its firmness during our mid 20’s. The main external factors that promote aging skin are sun exposure, gravity, sleeping positions and smoking.

As skin ages it takes on a thin and transparent appearance. Sometimes freckles or age spots (also called liver spots) begin to develop, as well as spider veins, wrinkles and fine lines around the eyes and mouth. Skin that was once supple and hydrated can begin to feel dry, itchy and appear to sag as we age because of damage to the fibbers underneath the skin’s surface.

Harsh soaps, perfumes, hot baths and astringents can make aging skin feels worse. Although nothing can stop age from taking its course, taking vitamin A can help renew skin and slow down the aging process. Wearing sunscreen on a daily basis will also help to protect your skin from harmful UV rays. Diet is also connected to skin health. For healthy, youthful skin drink plenty of water and eat a daily dose of fruits and vegetables to give skin adequate nutrients to promote elasticity.

Combination Skin

Does your nose look shiny while your cheek feels dry? This is a stereotypical description of combination skin.

Combination skin, as the name implies, is a mixture of two different types of skin. This skin type characteristically combines oily skin in T-zone pattern; which starts at the forehead, runs along the bridge of the nose and ends at the bottom of the chin. While normal to dry skin covers the rest of the face.

Combination skin is most affected by seasonal changes and stress. To care for combination skin, keep your skin clean by washing with a mild cleanser twice a day. Moisturize the dry area with a rich moisturizer; and control oily areas with large pores by applying a toners or mask after cleaning. Oil-absorbing makeup is the best choice for combination skin types. Because combination skin is so sensitive, use skin products that are light formula with no fragrances.

Dry Skin

Dry skin, also known as “xerosis”, is a very common skin type. Dry skin is characterized by a parched appearance and a firm skin texture - especially in winter when skin is exposed to cold, dry air and indoor heating systems.

Dry skin most commonly appears on the arms face and legs – first appearing as small pink spots. If not treated, dry skin can turn into painful red patches of bumpy skin that will eventually become itchy and flake. Sometimes dry skin can be so itchy and irritated that it will disturb sleep.

To alleviate your skin’s dryness, cleanse with moisturizing products and apply a rich oil-based cream or lotion frequently throughout the day – and especially before bedtime. One effective way to keep dry skin hydrated is by decreasing the frequency, temperature and length of your baths and showers. Also avoid the use of harsh soaps when bathing or cleansing your face and always apply a moisturizing lotion to your entire body after bathing and before bedtime. Eat lots of fruits and drink plenty of water to replenish dehydrated skin.

Normal Skin

If you have normal skin, consider yourself lucky.

Normal skin is well-balanced with a smooth texture that looks neither greasy nor dry. There are no visible pores or blemishes on the surface of normal skin. Normal skin typically can be identified after physical activity by pink cheeks. This flush of colour appears as a result of good blood circulation.

However, even normal skin can change with the seasons. For example high exposures to harmful UV sunlight, air pollution and stress can cause normal skin to become dry, oily or aged-looking. Therefore treat your normal skin to a regular skin care routine to prevent it from becoming slightly dry or oily.

After cleaning your face with mild cleanser, moisturize it with a light cream or lotion. Toner is only necessary if your skin feels tired, dirty or oily. Also normal skin is healthiest when it gets a chance to breathe. Give your skin a break and air out your pores by abstaining from wearing makeup regularly. Always shelter your skin from harmful UV rays by applying a sunscreen in summer and winter.

Oily Skin

When asked to describe what oily skin looks like, one would typically imagine large pores, oily pimples and blemishes.

Oily skin excretes far more oil then it needs to, sometimes taking on a shiny, grimy appearance. Teenagers are the most common victims of oily skin, because of their raging hormones. In addition, diets rich in greasy foods, pregnancy, birth control pills, harsh cosmetics and hot temperatures are common triggers for an oily complexion.

To keep skin clean and to reduce dirt and oil, you’ll need to cleanse with a pure soap that doesn’t contain any artificial additives.(mud soap), Natural soaps will wash away the grease and prevent the pores from becoming clogged and dissolve sebum (the oily substance produced by sebaceous glands in the skin) effectively. Exfoliaters and clay or mud masks are useful for deep skin cleansing. Only apply an oil-free moisturizer after the skin has been washed. Oil-free moisturizers keep the skin hydrated lightly, but won’t clog the pores.

A diet rich in leafy vegetables and fruits will promote a drier, cleaner complexion. Avoid fried, spicy foods or deserts and candy chocked full of sugar and chocolate. Smoking and drinking alcohol are also the prime culprits of oily skin. Skin care made with herbal ingredients such as Aloe Vera, lavender, lemongrass, green tea, licorice root, rosebuds and witch hazel can help effectively control oily skin.

Red Skin

Some faces turn red due to drastic temperature changes. However, others take on a red hue in the face and over the arms, hands and feet due to more serious skin conditions.

The most common reason for red skin is sun burn. After being exposed to harmful UVA and UVB rays the skin can burn as it becomes parched, scorched and tender to the touch. Acne-prone skin can also appear red in colour due to a breakout, or even worse, due to painful cystic acne. Sensitive skin with a thin, fine texture will also become red rapidly during the winter time, when cold, dry wind whisks up a windburn. The most severe red skin is caused by skin disorders such as eczema or allergic irritations.

If your skin ever turns red, accompanied by itching, scaling, blisters and inflammation, visit your doctor as soon as possible. If you suspect a skin disorder, don’t scratch or apply home remedies to inflamed skin without first seeking the advice of a doctor or medical professional.

Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin normally gets irritated or turns red when the temperature changes drastically between cold and hot. Most of the time, sensitive skin also appears dry looking with visible surface veins.

Most people with sensitive skin can’t use skin care products with strong fragrances and have to use hypo-allergenic skin care products specially designed for sensitive skin. If you have sensitive skin, cleanse your skin with a soap-free cleanser on a daily basis and never more than twice per day. Avoid harsh exfoliators and rough towels.

If your underarm skin area is also sensitive skin, then always apply shave gel before you shave, or use wax to remove unwanted hair so that the effect will last much longer and require less frequent shaving. In additional, before purchasing any new makeup or perfumes always test a sample on your wrist to see if your skin reacts negatively. The majority of products for sensitive skin are made with mildly natural herbal ingredients such as lavender, chamomile, neroli, rose and sandalwood.

Skin Type Chart

Oily Skin

People with oily skin often struggle with reoccurring bouts of acne throughout their lives – even into adulthood. Oily skin is characterized by its shiny appearance, coarse texture and rather enlarged pores. Those with oily skin often complain of oily hair. They also may experience flakiness and dryness around the nose, eyes and in areas that tend to accumulate excess oils and then dry out.

Skin Care Tip: Wash oily skin regularly or as needed with water-based, never oil-based, skin care products. Also refrain from applying a night time moisturizer and steer clear of oily foods in your diet.

Acne-Prone Skin

Although most people with oily skin are tormented with reoccurring blackheads and white heads, acne-prone skin can be extreme. When neglected or improperly cared for, acne-prone skin is ravaged by blemishes and can leave painful acne cysts and severe acne scarring in its wake.

Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is often identified by redness, broken capillaries and damaged blood vessels beneath the skin’s surface. Those with sensitive skin must limit their use of commercial skin care products – especially any product with heavy perfume.

Skin Care Tip: Dermatologists can recommend a line of natural sensitive skin care products that will be safe to use on unpredictable skin.

Dry Skin

Dry skin is a result of the skin’s ability to produce moisture and natural oils. As we age, and the more our skin becomes exposed to the sun and element, dryness occurs and skin takes on a taunt, leathery appearance. Dry skin usually goes hand in hand with dry hair, but few troubles with acne. Although dry skin may appear smooth and even, it can feel uncomfortably tight and rigid.

Skin Care Tip: The key is to moisturize dry skin, especially at night. Also, always apply adequate sunscreen to protect against sun damage.

Combination Skin

Combination-type skin is characteristic of something called the T-zone. This refers to an acne-prone T-shape across the nose, chin and forehead; while the skin around the cheeks, temples and throat remain normal or even dry.

Skin Care Tip: A variety of oil-free moisturizing gels can be incorporated into your skin care regime to comply with combination skin.

Mature Skin

Thanks to the aging process, as well as biological and hormonal changes, the regeneration of new skin cells become sluggish and skin begins to take on a crinkled appearance. Lines and crows feet start to develop around the eyes and mouth - where skin is first prone to loose its elasticity.

Skin Care Tip: Harsh astringents and acne washes should now be replaced with regenerating eye gels and firming moisturizers to promote skin suppleness and elasticity.

Normal Skin

If you have normal skin – you have the best of both worlds. Your skin isn’t too oily or too dry and blemishes are rare. Normal skin appears firm and smooth with naturally small pores. If you have normal skin you likely receive regular compliments on your healthy glow.

Skin Care Tip: A normal skin care regime will allow you the freedom to experiment with a wide variety of skin care products. Your normal skin care regime should consist of washing with a quality skin care facial wash and applying toner and moisturizer twice daily.

The A to Z of Skin Care

Ever look at the ingredients of your shampoo? ...Seem like a foreign language? To find out what you’re placing on your hair and skin simply look at the "Ingredient Index".

Acetate: an ester of acetic acid; any word that’s combined with acetate in an ingredient list determines its function.

Acetone: the simplest ketone frequently used in toners. Acetone can cause irritation and drying if its concentration is high.

Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol: a non-drying alcohol that softens skin. However, it’s also known for causing blackheads and whiteheads.

Acrylates: provides water-resistant properties for cosmetics. This ingredient is often referred to as Octylpropenamide Copolymer.

Alcohol SD-40: is a highly refined alcohol used in cosmetics. Because it evaporates very quickly, it’s often used as a way to quickly transport ingredients to the skin's surface to kill bacteria. Compared to ethyl (rubbing) alcohol, SD-40 is gentler on the skin.

Algae Extract: has antioxidant properties and restores skin’s moisture.

Allantoin: is botanical in nature. It helps heal and calm skin irritations.

Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA): this organic acid taken from fruit acids is used widely in anti-aging skin care products. It encourages moisture restoration, exfoliation and helps other ingredients to penetrate through the skin more effectively. Always use products containing AHAs in combination with sunscreen as they make your skin more susceptible to sun damage.

Alpha Lipoic Acid: has anti-inflammatory benefits, plus its water and fat soluble to protect skin cells.

Alum: an astringent that’s often used in after-shave products to treat nicks or razor cuts caused by shaving.

Ascorbic Acid: the medical name for vitamin C. L-ascorbic acid is often used in skin lightener products and anti-aging products because it stimulates collagen production.

Beeswax: derived from the natural honeycombs, is often used in moisturizing products such as lip balms, foot creams and body creams.

Benzoyl Peroxide: powerful antibacterial agent that helps kills acne by drying P. acne bacteria on the skin. Peroxide is also used to sanitize open wounds. Can be irritating.

Beta Hydroxy Acid: an oil-soluble organic acid used in exfoliators and acne-acne treatments.

Boric Acid: an antibacterial agent used in skin care products to give them a longer shelf life.

Caffeine: a stimulant present in coffee, tea and soda beverages is also useful can to soothe puffy eyes.

Camphor: an anti-infective agent with a unique taste and smell cools and refreshes itchy skin.

Cellulose: is derived from the walls of plants and used as an emulsifier and thickener in skin care products.

Collagen: the main epidermal protein supports the skin, bones, tendons, cartilage and connective tissue. Collagen is added to topical creams for its moisturizing benefits.

Cyclomethicone: a type of silicone that provides lustre and smoothness to skin care creams and cosmetics.

Dimethicone: used as a sealant in scar rehabilitation to smooth skin texture and provide moisture.

Elastin: a protein in the dermis (the layer of the skin beneath the epidermis). Elastin is responsible for skin elasticity and firmness. When it’s topically applied it has moisturizing effects.

Ethyl Alcohol: refined alcohol made from grain that’s often used in medicines, cleaning products, fragrances and astringents and toners. As it dries skin very quickly, moisturizers are always required after application.

Fragrance: a pleasant distinctive aroma usually blended from natural essential oils and concentrated chemicals distilled from plants.

Glycerin: this liquid derivative of bio- diesel production is used in cosmetics, liquid soaps, dynamite, inks and lubricants to lock-in hydration and keep skin moisturized, but it can also clog the pores.

Glycol Stearate: an emollient and emulsifier often used in body skin care products and shampoos to achieve a luminescent appearance.

Grape Seed Extract: a botanical extract known to increase the effectiveness of vitamin C by acting as a vehicle and a restorer of oxidized vitamin C.

Green Tea Extract: this derivative from decaffeinated green tea contains “catechins”; which are effective antioxidants known to help to prevent cancer.

Hyaluronic Acid: also known as "cyclic acid", is a powerful moisturizing agent.

Hydroquinone: a skin lightening agent. Two-percent concentrations are commonly found in over-the-counter lighteners; while prescription bleaching products have higher concentrations.

Isopropyl Palmitate: a skin softening ingredient that comes from palm and coconut oil, however it’s known to cause blackheads and whiteheads.

Jojoba Oil: natural oil taken from the seeds of the Simondsia Chinesis, a desert shrub. It’s very similar to natural human oil secretions so it’s non-greasy.

Kaolin: also called China Clay, fine clay that’s white in colour. Kaolin is often used in facial masks and powders that absorb oil.

Lactic Acid: used in chemical peels to hydrate, moisturize and strip away dry, flaky skin cells.

Lanolin: this oily substance that comes from sheep is commonly used in bath oils and hand creams to provide extra moisturize. In rarely cases, it can irritate the skin and cause skin allergy.

Lecithin: this antioxidant from nature is primarily derived from soybeans. It’s a natural emollient and emulsifier that helps to soften and replenish the skin.

Linoleic Acid: a vital fatty acid that fattens skin cells.

Liposomes: tiny spheres that transfer hydrating ingredients to skin cells.

Methyl Gluceth: attracts moisture and reduces skin dryness.

Mineral Oil: clear, unscented oil derived from petroleum hydrocarbons. Mineral oil is widely used in cosmetics to remove makeup, grease and excess oil from the skin.

Octyl Methoxycinnamate: used as an ingredient in non-PABA chemical sunscreens. May cause skin irritation in some cases.

Octyl Palmitate: often used as an alternative to mineral oil for its similar properties.

Octyl Salicylate: a sunburn and anti-bacterial preventative.

Oxybenzone: a UVB blocker used in sunscreen.

PABA: stands for para-aminobenzoic acid; blocks UVB sunlight.

Parabens: artificial chemicals, used as preservatives in cosmetics.

Petrolatum: Vaseline’s #1 ingredient is commonly used in creams to soften and soothe the skin.

Retinol: a fat-soluble vitamin A. Retinol is crucial for good vision and healthy skin, but in high concentrations it may cause skin irritations.

Retinal: also called “retinaldehyde” and a derivative of vitamin A. Retinal is one of the molecules responsible for light sensitivity.

Rose Hips: this botanical extract from wild roses is rich in vitamin C.

Salicylic Acid: a mild beta hydroxy acid that’s used as a safe exfoliant in chemical peels.

Silica: silicon dioxide; absorbs oil rapidly.

Silicone: a non-metallic chemical component to keep the skin healthy and refreshed; helpful in diminishing the appearance of hypertrophic scars.

Silk Powder: a natural fiber added to cosmetic products to give them their fine texture and to absorb oil.

Silk Proteins: used in some eye creams to prevent dehydration.

Sodium Bicarbonate: commonly called “baking soda”. This neutral acid raises skin PH levels.

Sodium Borate: commonly called “borax”; works as a preservative in cosmetics.

Sorbic Acid: a water-soluble acid and preservative.

Sulfur: this essential mineral module of vitamin B, kills bacteria causing acne. Found in many over-the-counter topical acne medications.

Titanium Dioxide: a chemical substance used in sunscreen products; blocks both UVA and UVB sunrays.

Vitamin A: a fat-soluble vitamin that keeps skin hydrated. Vitamin A is used in skin care products because it improves aging skin and firms skin texture. It can also dry out acne, but it makes skin sun sensitive.

Vitamin C: a water-soluble vitamin used in cosmetic creams, topical and oral medicines to boost collagen synthesis.

Vitamin D: a fat-soluble vitamin required for tooth and bone structure. It’s used in some prescription medicines to treat psoriasis.

Vitamin E: an oil-soluble antioxidant and emollient used in deodorants and hair care products to soften skin and hair.

Water: or H20, a colourless tasteless liquid used in all skin care products.

Witch Hazel: an effective astringent extracted from the leaves and bark of the

Hamamelis Virginia plant. It has botanical properties, helps improve acne, awakens puffy eyes and reduces excess oil on the skin.

Xanthan Gum: an emulsifier and thickener.

Zinc Oxide: this composite that increases immune function has anti-irritant properties so it’s commonly used in diaper rash creams and sunscreen products to prevent UV light from contacting the skin

MORE INGREDIENT......

A
Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol - A hypoallergenic lanolin-derived emollient with a smooth, velvety feel. Acetylated lanolin forms a protective coating on the skin's surface and prevents moisture loss.

Adenosine Triphosphate - A synthetic riboflavin. A component of Unipertan V-242 that functions as a catalyst in the tanning process.

Alfalfa - An extract of alfalfa, medicago sativa. A source of Vitamins C, D, E and K.

Almond Oil - An oil extracted from the seeds of sweet almonds and used as an emollient.

Aloe Extract - An oil-soluble extract of the aloe vera plant or any other member of the aloe family, known for the hydrating and soothing properties.

Aloe Vera Gel - Extract of the aloe vera leaf. Excellent hydrating, softening and soothing properties. Believed to have healing properties, especially for sunburned skin, provided the extract has not been altered during processing. A source of allantoin.

Aloe Vera Oil - The gel extracted from the leaves of the aloe vera plant, a member of the lily family.

Alpha Bisabolol - A myrrh-type gum resin with anti-irritant properties.

Althea Extract - The extract of the althea plant.

Aluminum Chlorohydrate - Aluminum salt. Most commonly used material for anti-perspirant preparations. Least irritating of the aluminum salts.

Aminomethyl Propanedial - An alkalizer / neutralizer used to adjust pH in cosmetic preparations.

Ammonium Laureth Sulfate - Surfactant. Used as primary surfactant for many shampoos. Low irritation.

Annato Extract - A natural plant colorant derived from the flesh surrounding the seed of a shrub native to South America, bixa orellana, producing yellow-orange tones.

Apricot Kernel Oil - Oil expressed from the seeds of apricots.

Aloe Juice - Any concentration or dilution of aloe vera gel.

Arachidyl Propionate - A skin softener and humectant obtained from coal and limestone.

Arnica - A stimulant that is said to increase circulation to the areas to which it is applied. Should only be applied to unbroken skin.

Awapuhi - Actiphyte of the Hawaiian white ginger root. A natural additive.

B
Banana Oil: The natural fragrance derived from bananas. Used as a solvent in some formulations.

Beeswax: Purified wax from the honey-comb of the bee. Used primarily as an emulsifier.

Benzophenone-3: Oxybenzone. An organic benzophen derivative. A sun-screen active in both UV-B and UV-A spectrums. Used in conjunction with a second sunscreen to obtain higher protection values of SPF 8 and above.

Benzothonium Chloride: A salt derivative that serves as an antiseptic and germicide.

Benzyl Alcohol: Solvent with a faint, sweet odor. Used in many perfumes.

Bioecolia - Natural sugar complex that inhibits the growth of unfavorable bacteria.

Biomin Aquacinque: An aqueous mixture of five skincare minerals: magnesium, iron, zinc, copper, and silicon (with yeast additive).

Biosaccharide Complex - Carbohydrate complex that inhibits the growth of bacteria on the skin that may cause the unpleasant after-tan odor.

Bladderwrack: A source of iodine; reported to help remove toxins.

Borage: An herbaceous plant, borgo officinalis. Skin soother.

Butylene Glycol: A petroleum-derived mechanical ingredient.

Butylparaben: The ester of butyl alcohol and p-hydroxybenzou acid family. An oil-soluble preservative of the paraben family.

C
C12-C15 Alcohols Benzoate: The ester of benzolic acid and C- 12-15 alcohols.

Cameilia Extract: Extract of a tropical evergreen shrub. Used to scent products.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: The mixed triester of glycerin and caprylic and capric acids. An emollient ester derived form coconut oil with good lubricating properties.

Caramel: A natural colorant.

Carbopol (or Carbomer 940/941/934): Thickening agents.

Carboxylate/Carboxaline: Magnesium aspirate.

Carotene (Beta Carotene): Found primarily in carrots. A pro-vitamin, converted by the body into vitamin A, carotene gives a yellow to orange-red color to formulations.

Castor Oil: Emollient, natural oil. Used in hair dressings, lipsticks, and skincare lotions. Obtained from the castor bean.

Ceteareth-20: Derived from cetearyl alcohol through ethoxylation. Used with the parent alcohol or with other fatty alcohols, it functions as a primary emulsifier and thickening agent.

Cetearyl Alcohol: A waxy, crystalline solid used as an emulsifier. Not to be confused with drying, ethyl alcohols.

Cetyl Alcohol: A secondary emulsifier that thickens or adds body to lotions. Not to he confused with drying, ethyl alcohols.

Chamomile Extract: Extract made from the flowers of anthemis nobilis. Used for its soothing properties.

Chlorophyll: The green coloring matter in plants. Known for its natural cleansing and moisturizing properties.

Cholesterol Escin Complex: Thought to aid in detoxification and shrinking of fat cells.

Citric Acid: An organic acid. Naturally occurring in citrus fruits and used to adjust the pH of products.

Clove Bud Oil: A natural essential oil steamed-distilled from clove buds, syzygium atmaticum. lends a sweet, spicy note to skin care formulations.

Cocamilopropyl Betaine: Surfactant derived from coconut oil. Used in low irritation, conditioning shampoos.

Cocoa Butter: Obtained from cocoa beans, used as an emollient. Used in suntan lotions as well as the manufacture of chocolate.

Coconut Oil: Natural oil derived from coconuts. Has a defatting effect on skin which is overcome by using coconut oil- deprived esters rather than the oil itself. Surfactants derived from coconut oil have good cleansing properties and are generally known to be mild.

Collagen (Soluble): A protein derived from the selected skins of young animals or from vegetable sources. The collagen molecule is too large to penetrate the unbroken skin. However, it forms a superior protective film to soothe and hydrate. Collagen is chemically bonded to water and so provides long-lasting moisturizing effects.

Comfrey: Plant which contains allantoin, which is thought to stimulate the growth of healthy tissue.

Comfrey Extract: An extract of the fruit of citrullus colocynthis. Skin soother and moisturizer.

Copper Peptides: Organic copper proteins help to accelerate the tanning process by boosting your melanocytes with organic copper, while the protein provides soothing and nourishing benefits to the skin.

Corn Oil: Natural golden-colored oil expressed from corn kernels, zea mays. America's premier native emollient oil. Rich in linoleic acid, one of the three essential fatty acids.

Corn Starch: Obtained from corn and used as a drawing agent. Absorbs water and soothes the skin.

Cucumber Extract: From the same family as aloe; strong moisturizing capabilities.

Cyclomethicone: A volatile silicone compound used to reduce the greasy feel of tanning oils.

CuO2 Complex™ - Exclusive intensifying complex for rich hydration.

D
Dandelion: A vegetable source of protein that is high in skin-friendly ingredients.

D&C Red #33: Certified monoazo colorant permitted for use in drugs and cosmetics but not in food.

DEA (Diethanolamine): A neutralizing agent that raises pH.

Decyl Oleate: The ester of decyl alcohol and oleic acid. An emollient that adds body to lotions.

Deionized/Demineralized Water: Water run through active resin beds to remove metallic ions and filtered through a submicron filter to remove suspended impurities.

DHA (DeHydroxyAcetone) - derived from sugar cane, causes the surface layer of your skin to oxidize, creating a natural-looking tan.

Dicetyldimonium Chloride: A quaternary ammonium salt. Conditioner.

Dihydroxyacetone: The active ingredient of sunless tanning products. Dihydroxyacetone, or DHA, reacts with amino acids in the outer layers of the skin to produce a browning effect.

Dimethicone: Used for its superior spreadability, excellent emolliency, and water repellency.

Dimethicone Copolyol: A silicone derived emollient used in conditioner preparations for hair and skin.

DL-Alpha Tocopheryl Acetate: See vitamin E.

DMDM (Dimethylol Dimethyl): Used with hydantoin to form a preservative. Slowly releases formaldehyde to give bactericidal properties to lotions.

Dimethyl Lauramine Oleate: Salt of dimethyl lauramine and oleic acid. Conditioning agent for hair.

Disodium Oleamide MEA-Sulfosuccinate: A wax-like solid surfactant used as a solubilizer and wetting agent in bath preparations and lotions.

DL-Alpha Tocopheryl Acetate: Vitamin E acetate. See Vitamin E.

DNA Enzyme Complex - bioengineered to supply the body with moisturization. and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

E
EDTA (Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic Acid): A synthetic compound used in lotions as a preservative.

Elastin: A protein, found in the layers of skin and artery walls, that keeps skin soft and supple. Used as a moisture binder.

Ergocalciferol: Known as Vitamin D when used in food products or skincare lotions.

Essential Oils: Naturally fragrant oils used in cosmetics, aromatherapy, medicine, perfumery, and flavoring.

Evening Primrose Oil - helps your body replenish moisture lost to tanning, minimizing flaking and peeling for the appearance of a longer-lasting tan.

Ethyl Alcohol: Acts as a fat solvent in oils and lotions.

Ethylparaben: A microbial preservative.

Eucalyptus Oil: A vegetable oil valued for its awakening, revitalizing fragrance.

F
FD&C Dyes: Dyes approved by FDA for food, drug, and cosmetic use.

Farnesol: Natural ingredient found throughout the plant world which regulates developmental processes and is a natural bioactivator in human skin.

Fir Needle Oil: A natural cleanser obtained from the needle of various cone-bearing evergreen trees.

Fragrance: An aromatic blend of: essential oils of natural origin; or essential oils of natural origin and synthetic fragrance materials; or completely synthetic fragrance materials.

Free Radical Scavengers - naturally derived anti-oxidants that counteract the free radicals that cause fine lines and wrinkles.

G
Gelatin: Obtained by hydrolysis of collagen-proteinaceous material. Used as thickener and bodying agent in shampoos and face masks.

Geranium Masculatum: Promotes shiny hair.

Ginseng: Extract of ginseng root. Demulcent, anti-irritant, soothing.

Glucose Tyrosinate: A source of soluble tyrosine, this gives lotion a characteristic tan color.

Glycereth: Polyethylene glycol ester of glycerin. An emollient.

Glycereth 26: The polyethylene glycol ether of glyerin with an average ethoxylation value of 26. An emollient.

Glycerin: A naturally derived skin friendly humectant prepared by the hydrolysis of fats and oils.

Glyceryl Monostearate: A waxlike solid used as an emulsifying and thickening agent.

Glyceryl Stearate: A monoester of glycerine and steric acid. An emollient and emulsifier.

Glycol Stearate: The monoester of ethylene glycol and stearic acid. An emollient and an emulsifier used in lotions and shampoos to achieve a pearling effect.

H
HEDTA (Hydroxyethyl Ethylenediamine Triacetic Acid): A bonding agent.

Heliotherapy Hydration Complex - combination of advanced skin care extracts that help retain the moisture normally lost to the sun and the environment.

Honey: Used as a color, flavor, and emollient. Natural ingredient for cosmetic products.

Horsetail Extract: Obtained from the plant equisetum arvense, known for its soothing, regenerating properties as well as its toning and astringent qualities. Commonly believed to stop bleeding and heal wounds.

Horsetail gress: Equisetum arvense.

Hot Action Complex - exclusive combination of intensifying ingredients produces a warming and reddening effect as it works deep within the epidermis.

Hyaluronic Acid - A potent humectant that absorbs moisture from the air to help hydrate your skin. A viscous mucopolysaccharide used as a humectant.

Hydrogenated Soybean Oil: The end product of controlled hydrogenation of soybean oil, the oil obtained from soybeans by extraction or expression. It consists essentially of oleic, linolenic and saturated acids. Emollient.

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil: Vegetable oil thickened through hydrogenation. Increases the stability of the oil while retaining the protective emolliency.

Hydrolyzed Animal Collagen: Derived from animal sources. Gives body to the hair and helps protect it from sun, wind and weather damage. leaves a protective emollient film. See collagen.

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein: Wheat oligosaccharides. Hydrolysate of wheat protein. Non-animal source of protein for shampoos and conditioners and other cosmetic preparations.

Hydroxyethyl Celiulose: A naturally derived polymer which helps modify viscosity and form gels with water-soluble ingredients. Helps protect the skin and impact a certain feel.

I
Inaidazolidinyl Urea: A by-product of human metabolism used as an anti microbial agent.

Inositol: Vitamin B; an emollient.

Isopropyl Myristate: The ester of isopropyl alcohol and myristic acid. It spreads very easily and promotes a dry feeling.

Isopropyl Palmitate: The ester of isopropyl alcohol and palmitic acid. Spreads more readily than isopropyl myristate.

Ivy: A mild irritant botanical believed to stimulate blood circulation to the areas on which it is applied and known for its toning and tightening properties.

J
Jojoba Oil: Extracted from the seeds of the desert shrub simondsia chinesis this oil is actually an emollient ester with excellent spreading, lubricating and penetrating properties. Excellent for hair and scalp conditioning and said to be useful in oily skin preparations.

K
Kiwi Extract: Extract of the tropical kiwi fruit. Natural additive.

L
Laneth-10 Acetate: The polyethylene glycol ether of lanolin alcohol with an average ethoxylation value of 10. Lanolin derived emulsifier.

Lanolin: A refined derivative of the unctuous fat-like sebaceous secretion of sheep. It consists of a highly complex mixture of esters of high molecular weight aliphatic, steroid or triterpenoid alcohols and fatty acids. Obtained from the wax found on sheep's wool; refined and purified to cosmetic specifications. Excellent emollient, skin lubricant and protectant, capable of absorbing water in an amount equal to 50% of its weight. Rich in cholesterol and other skin-friendly sterols.

Lanolin Alcohols: Distilled and deodorized solid with excellent emolliency to skin and hair. Contains up to 30% cholesterol and related sterols.

Lauramide DEA: A mixture of ethanolamides of lauric acid. A high foaming surfactant for shampoos, bubblebaths, etc.

Laureth-23: An emulsifier. The polyethylene glycol ether of lauryl alcohol.

Lauroamphocarboxyglycinate: Mild, foaming surfactant for shampoos and facial cleansers. An amphoteric organic compound.

Lecithin: Naturally occuring phospholipid derived from soybeans. Both water and oil loving, lecithin helps protect the skin and replenish the acid mantle as well as improve the skin's feel after application.

M
Macademia Nut Oil: Extract of macadamia nut. Natural additive.

Magnesium Citrate: Magnesium salt of citric acid. Used in hair sets or bodying agents.

Menthol: A crystalline alcohol that occurs especially in mint oils. Has the sharp fragrance and cooling properties of peppermint.

Methyl Gluceth: A humectant valuable in eliminating dry skin; less tacky than other humectants.

Methylchloroisothiazolinone: Preservative. Used only in rinse-off products.

Methylisothiazolinone: Preservative. Used only in rinse-off products.

Methylparaben: Water-soluble anti-microbial agent. One of the most commonly used preservative in cosmetics today.

Methylsuifonylmethane (MSM): A patented substance found in, for example, cow's milk and human urine that is said to enhance moisture retention of the skin, relieve discomfort from skin irritation, soften, smooth and lubricate the skin, and strengthen nails.

Mineral Oil: A liquid blend of hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum. An effective solvent for removing oil, grease and make-up from the skin. An excellent amplifier or intensifier allowing the skin to absorb ultraviolet rays more effectively. Most companies no longer use mineral oil in products; vegetable oils have been found to be as effective and more skin friendly.

Mink Oil: An oil similar to human sebum; this oil is obtained from the subdermal fatty tissue of minks. It has soothing, amplifying, conditioning, and protective properties, making it an important component of dry skin products. High in unsaturated triglycerides, mink oil has tremendous spreading capabilities.

Modified Sea Salts: Sea salts obtained by evaporation of sea salts.

Montinorilionite: A mineral that has a drawing effect while absorbing greases and dirt.

Mucopolysacchaildes: Highly effective humectants with claims of adding up to 33 percent more moisture in the skin.

Myristyl Myristate: Ester of myristyl alcohol and myristic acid. Esters are light oils used as cosmetic emollients.

N
N-Acetyl-LTyrosine: A source of soluble tyrosine.

NaPCA (Sodium PCA): The sodium salt of 2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylic Acid, NaPCA is one of the best moisture binders available, as well as a humectant and an emollient.

Nanospheres - a unique delivery system that encapsulates moisturizing agents to help promote a spectacular looking tan.

Nettles: Coarse herbs known for their tonic, astringent and revitalizing properties.

Nettle Extract (White): Obtained from the flowers of lamium album and containing tannins, amino acids and flavonoids. Known for its tonic, astringent and revitalizing properties. Used both in skin care and hair care preparations.

Nylon-12: Microscopic spheroids that have tremendous absorbant powers. Nylon- 12 remains on the skin's surface to absorb skin oil as it's secreted, making the skin's surface imperfections (including wrinkles) less apparent.

O
Octocrylene: A substituted acrylic.

Octyl Methoxycinnamate: The ester of 2-ethylehexyl alcohol and methoxycinnamic acid. A non-PABA sunscreen agent manufactured in Switzerland.

Octyl Palmitate: An emollient amplifying ester commonly used as a mineral oil replacement.

Octyl Salicylate: Ester of 2-ethylhexel alcohol and salicylic acid used as an antiseptic and sunburn preventative.

Octyl Stearate: Derived from cascarilla bark and other natural items; provides a barrier between skin and the elements; softens and smooths the skin.

Oleyl Betaine: A zwitterion (inner salt).

Olive Oil: Extract of olive. Emollient. Superior penetrating ability. Used in lipsticks, hairdressings, shampoos, soaps and conditioners.

P
PABA (Para Amino Benzoic Acid): A vitamin B complex acid used as a "building block" in sunscreens. Tremendous UVB absorption qualities.

Padimate O (Octyl Dimethyl PABA or 2-Ethyihexyl PABA): The ester of 2-ethyihexyl alcohol and dimethyl paminobenzoic acid. A "PABA~free" sunscreen, Padimate O is a derivative of PABA, but is no longer PABA.

Panthenol: A biologically active substance that metabolizes to vitamin B5 in the skin. Known for its revitalizing and conditioning effects in the hair and skin. It has humectant-like properties that promote moisture absorption.

Parsley: Petroselinum sativum. Soothes skin.

PEG (Polyethylene Glycol or Polyoxyethylene Glycol): Polymeric forms of ethylene oxide. An organic configuration that is reacted with various other molecules to produce a wide range of cosmetic materials. Higher numbers mean higher ethoxilation, which usually means higher solubility in water. (PEG-75 Lanolin has protective and emollient properties, while PEG-20 Stearate is an emulsifier.)

PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate: An ethoxylated sorbitol monoester of lauric acid with an average of 80 moles of ethylene oxide. A mild surfactant.

PEG-100 Stearate: Derived from stearic aid. Emulsifier for creams and lotions.

PEG-20 Stearate: A water soluble emulsifier for triglycerides, waxes, and mineral oils.

PEG-150 Distearate: Form stabilizer; hair and skin conditioner.

Peppermint Oil: Obtained from peppermint leaves. Mild anesthetic, or flavoring material.

Petrolatum: Petroleum derived, inexpensive substance used to prevent moisture loss. Tends to feel tacky.

Phospholipids: Complex fatty materials found in all living cells. Emollient, antioxidant, natural emulsifiers, spreading agents.

Phosphoric Acid: An inorganic acid; a pH adjuster.

Pineapple Extract: Contains the protein digesting and blood clotting enzyme bromelin, anti-inflammatory.

Placental Extract: Aqueous extract of bovine or human placentas after birthing. A naturally rich source of skin nutrients, amino acids, and proteins that has a revitalizing effect on skin.

Planell Oil: Emollient. Mixture of naturally derived phytosterols and glycolipids.

Poloxamer 407: Non-ionic polymer surfactant.

Polyquaternium 7: Conditioner used in both rinse-off and leave-in conditioner preparations.

Polysorbate 20: A mixture of laurate esters of sorbitol and sorbitol anhydrides, consisting of monoester, condensed with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide. Versatile oil-in-water emulsifier, very water-soluble solubilizer for essential oils, fragrances and vegetable oils in aqueous solutions. Viscosity modifier in shampoos, liquid soaps and conditioners.

Propylene Glycol: An aliphatic alcohol serving as an humectant in skin products and a solvent for preservatives, essential oils, flavors and fragrances. Also used in preparation of herbal extracts.

Propylene Glycol Stearate: As ester of propylene glycol and stearic acid. Used in creams, lotions, hair care products and makeups as co-emulsifier to produce a pearly opaque effect.

Propylparaben: Common cosmetic preservative that is anti-fungal and anti-microbial. Less water soluble than methylparaben.

Protovanol: A concentrated form of vanilla used as a natural tanning accelerator. Requires heat and light to drive it.

Purified Water: See deionized water.

Q
Qnaternium-15 & 19: A preservative active against a wide spectrum of microbial organisms. A quaternary ammonium salt.

Quaternary Ammonium Salts (QUATS): Various derivatives in this group are used in waterproof sunscreens because they impart cationic properties to compounds. QUATS chemically react with the skin, making lotions they are in more water resistant.

R
Red Clover Flowers: A skin soothing ingredient.

Red Raspberry Leaves: Leaves of the red raspberry, rubus idaeus. Astringent.

Retinyl Paimitate: Vitamin A. Useful in cosmetics as a skin normalizer. Works to moisturize dry skin and reduce excess oil.

Riboflavin: Vitamin B2. Works with soluble tyrosine in suntan-enhancing products. Believed to accelerate tyrosine in tanning products. Produces a characteristic yellow color in lotions.

Robane: Obtained from shark oil. Helps skin absorb oxygen and acts to fight bacteria.

Rosemary Extract: Valued for its reviving, blood vessel-widening, and invigorating properties.

S
Safflower Oil: An emollient oil with a high content of unsaturated fats, making for ease of penetration.

Sage Extract: Oil of the herbal plant salvia officinalis-. Smells like camphor. Astringent. Supposedly has healing powers. Used by some to prevent drying.

Salicylic Acid: Occurs naturally in wintergreen, sweet birch and other plants. Anti-microbial. Keratolytic properties, softens skin and hair. Used in making aspirin.

Sea Kelp: Ahnfeltia extract. The calcined ashes of seaweeds, from which iodine is obtained; a large, coarse seaweed or wrack. Skin soother.

Sea Wrack: Seaweed cast ashore.

Selenium Protein Complex (Biomin S-P-C): Neutralizes free radicals on the skin, which is thought to minimize the aging effects of the sun. Also serves as a counter irritant.

Sesame Oil: A light, emollient oil obtained from sesame seeds.

Shea Butter: A natural lipid obtained from the fruit of the karite tree, butyrosperum parkii. The slightly greenish butter with soothing protecting qualities is said to have some sunscreening ability.

Silk Amino Acids: The mixture of amino acids resulting from the complete hydrolysis of silk. The principal amino acids contained within are glycine, alanine, and serine. Their low molecular weight indicates that the molecules can penetrate the cuticle in undamaged hair as well as the surface layer of the epidermis. Silk amino acids improve skin and hair with regard to feel and gloss, and have a moisturizing effect due to their water-binding properties.
Silica: silicon dioxide; absorbs oil rapidly.
Silicone: a non-metallic chemical component to keep the skin healthy and refreshed; helpful in diminishing the appearance of hypertrophic scars.
Silk Powder: a natural fiber added to cosmetic products to give them their fine texture and to absorb oil.

Slippery Elm Bark: The dried inner bark of ulmus fulva Used for its soothing and softening properties. A product of the North American elm tree.

Soap Bark: A perennial herb native to Europe and parts of Asia. A natural cleanser.

Sodium C14-16 Olefin Suffonate: Surfactant derived from coconut oil. Used in "soapless" shampoos. Mixture of long chain of surfactant salts.

Sodium Chloride: A purified salt used for its natural cleansing, toning, refreshening, and astringent properties.

Sodium Laureth Suffate: The sodium salt of sulfated ethoxylated lauryl alcohol. A high foaming, viscous surfactant, milder to the skin than sodium lauryl sulfate. Excellent cleansing agent for shampoos.

Sodium PCA: A sodium salt of 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid, a natural moisturizing factor component. A humectant and emollient. Holds several times its weight in water.

Sodium laureth-13 Carboxylate: An anionic surfactant increasing the cleansing power of some shampoos.

Sodium Saccharin: Artificial flavoring, sweetner. Non-caloric. Pound for pound, 300 times sweeter than sugar. Used in mouthwash, denitrifies, lipsticks.

Sodium Trideceth Sulfate: A sodium salt of sulfated ethoxylated tridecyl alcohol. An excellent wetting agent for shampoo preparations, as well as baby shampoos.

Sorbitan Stearate: Used as an emulsifier of essential oils in lotion products. Thickens and stabilizes emulsions.

Sorbitol: A humectant that leaves skin with a velvety feeling. Derived from fruits, seaweed, and algae. Similar to naturally occurring glycerin.

Squalane: A saturated branched chain of hydrocarbon obtained from hydrogenating shark liver oil. It is found in small quantities in human sebum. A natural emollient; very spreadable and soothing to the skin.

Stearalkonium Chloride: Quaternary ammonium compound. Used in hair conditioners. Conditioner.

Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine: An amidoamine. Conditioner.

Stearic acid: A common, naturally occurring fatty acid widely used as an inexpensive primary emulsifying agent. When neutralized with triethanolamine, it functions as a tremendous thickening agent. Its soap-like character enables it to penetrate the skin and to have emollient, skin-softening properties.

Stearyl Alcohol: An emulsion stabilizer; also adds body to a lotion.

Sunflower Oil: Obtained from sunflower seeds. Bland, pale yellow oil that contains large amounts of Vitamin E. Natural oil.

Sulfur: this essential mineral module of vitamin B, kills bacteria causing acne. Found in many over-the-counter topical acne medications.

Sweet AImond Oil: The fixed oil obtained from the ripe seed kernel of prunus persica dulsis. Emollient.

T
TEA (Triethanolamine): Produced by ammonolysis of ethylene oxide. Neutralizes carbomer solutions to form gels. Neutralizes stearic acid to form anionic emulsions and acts as an alkalizing agent to control pH.

Tetrasodium EDTA: Water softner. A bonding agent that links with minerals to prevent them from causing microbial growth.

Titanium Dioxide (TiO2): An inorganic oxide occurring in nature, brilliant white in color with many times the covering power of zinc oxide. Used as a colorant (opacifier) and absorbant.

Tocopherol Acetate: The ester of tocopherol and acetic acid. See Vitamin E.

Tocopheryl Linoleate: A substance that helps prevent stiffening of the stratum corneum as a result of UV exposure. Provides the skin with linoleic acid, one of the major essential fatty acids.

Tocopheryl Nicotinnate: Increases blood supply at the skin's surface without irritation.

TRF (Tissue Respiratory Factor): Skin care complex. Composed of amino acids, mono- and disaccharides, vitamins, phosphorus-containing compounds, nucleosides and nucleotides, TRF substances are produced by living cells (like yeast) upon injury. They may serve as healing agents, stimulate collagen and elastin production, and regenerate cells on the lower levels of the skin.

Tyrosine: The amino acid from proteins that is converted through several metabolic steps to melanin. It is added to tanning accelerator products to supplement the body's normal level of tyrosine at the skin's pigment cell level thereby speeding the tanning process. May be used in its natural form or in a modified, more water solubler form as acetyl tyrosine.

U
Unipertan: The original tan accelerating ingredient composed of tyrosine, riboflavin, and collagen (hydrolyzed animal protein or protein hydrosolate). The original form of unipertan employs animal by-products.

Unipertan V-242: A totally vegetable form of unipertan, providing tyrosine (an amino acid essential to the tanning process) and adenosine triphosphate (a vegetable catalyst to the tanning process), in a vegetable collagen base.

Unitrienol T27: A patented blend of fernesyl acetate, fernesol, and panthenyl triacetate which helps in the regulation of moisture and oil levels in the skin while promoting elasticity. Studies show that unitrienol reduces the appearance of wrinkle depth.

V
Vanillin: A natural tanning accelerator that reacts with skin proteins under the influence of heat and light to produce a tan.

Vegetable Oil (Hydrogenated): obtained from soybean and cotton. Edible, natural moisture binders.

Vitamin A: An ingredient used for its regenerating properties.

Vitamin D: Soothes skin; has corrective qualities; an excellent skin nutrient.

Vitamin E (in its synthetic form, Tocopherol Acetate): A natural moisture binder that allows the skin to breathe and function naturally. Believed to have natural healing qualities.

Vitamin E Linoleate: A deep moisturizing vitamin derivative that - "plumps" underlying skin cells and helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

VITATAN™ Complex - exclusive tanning technology supplies the skin with moisturizing nutrients to help build a spectacular, golden brown tan.

W
Walnut Extract - bronzing agent that creates a natural-looking tan color.

Walnut Leaf Extract: Obtained from the leaves of juglans spp. and used for its astringent and conditioning properties.

Walnut Oil: A medium-light oil that leaves a luxurious, silky feel on the skin.

Watercress Extract: Extract from nasturtium officinalis. Natural additive.

Wheat Germ Oil: A rich source of vitamin E that smooths the skin and serves as an anti-oxydant.

Wheat Oligosaccharides: Polysaccharide, derivative of wheat. Conditioner for hair and skin. A moisturizer.

Witch Hazel: Obtained from twigs of hamamelis virginiana. Skin freshener, astringent.

X
Xanthan Gum: an emulsifier and thickener.

Y
Yeast Extract: Obtained from yeast, this derivative is a popular constituent of oily skin preparations.

Z
Zinc Oxide: A compound of zinc and oxygen, zinc oxide is a mild antiseptic agent. When added to sunscreens, it physically prevents UV light fromreaching the skin

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